I just noticed a crack in the head of my flute, about 1 1/2 in long, that runs through to the lining up near the plug. I might have mistaken it for a grain line, but I think it's newly developed. It's an older Copeland keyless in blackwood from when he was in Philadelphia. I've heard and read that it's not uncommon to find cracks develop in the head of a lined flute. I'm wondering if it's something I should be concerned with and if I should take any precautions?
Just looked up your biog- I can see why you might have problems. Definitely check on the humidity levels of your instrument storage. NEVER leave it in a car, EVER,EVER.
I have an old Nach Meyer blackwood that I inherited from my grandpa that developed a couple of radial cracks on the upper body tenon. I successfully repaired them with CA glue. Later I found a crack developing along the outside of the same upper body section. I also repaired that with CA and smoothed it with really fine sandpaper.
It came to me a few years ago, well-oiled & I've been fairly diligent about keeping it that way. I've never left in the car (more than a few minutes to run into a store, etc.), and usually leave it in the case when not playing. Outside humidity is pretty high (Florida), but the indoor ambient humidity is moderate with AC / heat, depending on time of year.
I just had to deal with a similar situation. I could have left it, but there was moisture seeping through the largest crack when I played it, and I was concerned that the crack would only get worse with time.
Don't oil the flute before you glue the crack shut, if you decide to do that, or you'll wind up with oil in the crack, and glue that won't stick to it. A little superglue from one of the containers with the precision tips (Crazy Glue in the plastic tube that holds the metal tube with the precision tip.) can be very useful applied over the crack and allowed to seep into it.
If you use sandpaper to fine sand the glue on top down and feather it out, you'll scratch the instrument, so be prepared to use whatever type of finish is suitable. (You could just leave the glue line on top. I will only make the fix more durable.) For me, with cocus wood, I used ebony stain and polyurethane over it. I used 400 grit sandpaper to feather the glue out. You can still see the glue bond, but with the black background, I'd rather have that that a big crack later that affects air pressure and how high up the scale one can play.
You can oil it after you're sure the fix is stable and to your satisfaction.
I stuck a freezer bag, left open, with a moist paper towel in it in the padded, plastic food storage case in which I keep the flute to help with humidity.
Of course, you can pay someone to do this or something even better. If it is an expensive flute and worth it to you, that might be the way to go.
I'd definitely contact Copeland first. The danger here is if the crack will expand and go through the embouchure hole.
I'd guess that the humidity level is your issue--AC is probably dropping indoor humidity into unsafe levels, especially compared to the high humidity levels outside. Follow Arthur's suggestion to re-humidify.
*Please* don't go with the ebony stain and polyurethane coating suggestion though. My fear would be that the coating would lead to further cracks down the road.
Is there a way to contact Copeland? The last few times I checked, the Copeland Woodwinds website appeared to be down. I don't have a My Space account, though I do have email. In the meantime I'll try to re-humidify.
Jason Burnfield - I had a similar problem (entire length of headjoint, caused by freezing), that I repaired with crazy glue. 15 years on, it's holding up well. Rather than sanding, I used a very sharp scraper to cut down the excess glue, and avoided removing much wood. Minor sanding to complete the job. No stain or polyurethane though...
I remember reading somewhere once a week for the first month and then once a month. Probably differs a bit with climate, wood-type and use. Almond oil (with vitamin E, if you can find it) was what I remember being suggested. I purchased this one used and it came with a coating of oil inside and out that was glossy and light to the touch.
Might be able to make it too oily to play, but I'm not sure it would be bad for the wood?
Yes, please don't go for polyurethane varnish or similar. Most flutes are finely sanded wood with non drying oils used on them, e.g. almond oil, etc. Some makers (Sweetheart flutes?) use a drying oil - I think tung oil, rather than linseed oil.
I have had good results sanding with 600 grit and finer.
I recommend that you never work on your flute unless you truly know what you're doing, and it doesn't sound like you do. I don't mean that in a disparaging way - I don't know how to work on a flute either. The point is, if you mess up, there goes your pride and joy, and a Copeland should be your pride and joy. Take it to someone who truly knows wood. It will look better and respond better if it's done right the first time. Don't mess with it or you may regret it.
Thank you for the comments and links. I've just emailed Copeland Woodwinds, have added a small humidifier to my case for storage and am hopefully looking forward to many more years of playing!
Cracked flute?
Cracked flute?
I just noticed a crack in the head of my flute, about 1 1/2 in long, that runs through to the lining up near the plug. I might have mistaken it for a grain line, but I think it's newly developed. It's an older Copeland keyless in blackwood from when he was in Philadelphia. I've heard and read that it's not uncommon to find cracks develop in the head of a lined flute. I'm wondering if it's something I should be concerned with and if I should take any precautions?
# Posted on December 2nd 2008 by mrkelahan
Re: Cracked flute?
Keep it oiled, always swab it out after use, and ensure it's in a reasonably damp environment ( not Arizona, for instance, or air-conditioning ).
# Posted on December 2nd 2008 by Guernsey Pete
Re: Cracked flute?
Just looked up your biog- I can see why you might have problems. Definitely check on the humidity levels of your instrument storage. NEVER leave it in a car, EVER,EVER.
# Posted on December 2nd 2008 by Guernsey Pete
Re: Cracked flute?
I have an old Nach Meyer blackwood that I inherited from my grandpa that developed a couple of radial cracks on the upper body tenon. I successfully repaired them with CA glue. Later I found a crack developing along the outside of the same upper body section. I also repaired that with CA and smoothed it with really fine sandpaper.
# Posted on December 2nd 2008 by jasonlburnfield
Re: Cracked flute?
Thanks for the comments, 'Guernsey'.
It came to me a few years ago, well-oiled & I've been fairly diligent about keeping it that way. I've never left in the car (more than a few minutes to run into a store, etc.), and usually leave it in the case when not playing. Outside humidity is pretty high (Florida), but the indoor ambient humidity is moderate with AC / heat, depending on time of year.
'Jason', what's CA glue?
# Posted on December 2nd 2008 by mrkelahan
Re: Cracked flute?
I just had to deal with a similar situation. I could have left it, but there was moisture seeping through the largest crack when I played it, and I was concerned that the crack would only get worse with time.
Don't oil the flute before you glue the crack shut, if you decide to do that, or you'll wind up with oil in the crack, and glue that won't stick to it. A little superglue from one of the containers with the precision tips (Crazy Glue in the plastic tube that holds the metal tube with the precision tip.) can be very useful applied over the crack and allowed to seep into it.
If you use sandpaper to fine sand the glue on top down and feather it out, you'll scratch the instrument, so be prepared to use whatever type of finish is suitable. (You could just leave the glue line on top. I will only make the fix more durable.) For me, with cocus wood, I used ebony stain and polyurethane over it. I used 400 grit sandpaper to feather the glue out. You can still see the glue bond, but with the black background, I'd rather have that that a big crack later that affects air pressure and how high up the scale one can play.
You can oil it after you're sure the fix is stable and to your satisfaction.
I stuck a freezer bag, left open, with a moist paper towel in it in the padded, plastic food storage case in which I keep the flute to help with humidity.
Of course, you can pay someone to do this or something even better. If it is an expensive flute and worth it to you, that might be the way to go.
Good luck.
# Posted on December 2nd 2008 by Arthur Nordstrom
Re: Cracked flute?
I'd definitely contact Copeland first. The danger here is if the crack will expand and go through the embouchure hole.
I'd guess that the humidity level is your issue--AC is probably dropping indoor humidity into unsafe levels, especially compared to the high humidity levels outside. Follow Arthur's suggestion to re-humidify.
*Please* don't go with the ebony stain and polyurethane coating suggestion though. My fear would be that the coating would lead to further cracks down the road.
# Posted on December 2nd 2008 by dr_funkenstein
Re: Cracked flute?
Is there a way to contact Copeland? The last few times I checked, the Copeland Woodwinds website appeared to be down. I don't have a My Space account, though I do have email. In the meantime I'll try to re-humidify.
# Posted on December 2nd 2008 by mrkelahan
Re: Cracked flute?
There's a thread on Chiff and Fipple that has his contact info:
http://forums.chiffandfipple.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=61533
Best of luck!
# Posted on December 2nd 2008 by dr_funkenstein
Re: Cracked flute?
CA = cyanoacrylate = crazy glue
Jason Burnfield - I had a similar problem (entire length of headjoint, caused by freezing), that I repaired with crazy glue. 15 years on, it's holding up well. Rather than sanding, I used a very sharp scraper to cut down the excess glue, and avoided removing much wood. Minor sanding to complete the job. No stain or polyurethane though...
# Posted on December 3rd 2008 by Gzeg
Re: Cracked flute?
How often should one apply oil inside the bore of an old wooden flute?
I saturated mine a week ago when it looked bone dry. Should I do it again now or wait a while. How often once the initial oiling is done?
Thanks.
# Posted on December 3rd 2008 by Arthur Nordstrom
Re: Cracked flute?
I remember reading somewhere once a week for the first month and then once a month. Probably differs a bit with climate, wood-type and use. Almond oil (with vitamin E, if you can find it) was what I remember being suggested. I purchased this one used and it came with a coating of oil inside and out that was glossy and light to the touch.
Might be able to make it too oily to play, but I'm not sure it would be bad for the wood?
# Posted on December 3rd 2008 by mrkelahan
Re: Cracked flute?
Yes, please don't go for polyurethane varnish or similar. Most flutes are finely sanded wood with non drying oils used on them, e.g. almond oil, etc. Some makers (Sweetheart flutes?) use a drying oil - I think tung oil, rather than linseed oil.
I have had good results sanding with 600 grit and finer.
# Posted on December 3rd 2008 by Crackpot
Re: Cracked flute?
I recommend that you never work on your flute unless you truly know what you're doing, and it doesn't sound like you do. I don't mean that in a disparaging way - I don't know how to work on a flute either. The point is, if you mess up, there goes your pride and joy, and a Copeland should be your pride and joy. Take it to someone who truly knows wood. It will look better and respond better if it's done right the first time. Don't mess with it or you may regret it.
# Posted on December 3rd 2008 by Ailin
Re: Cracked flute?
Just spotted this:
http://forums.chiffandfipple.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=64898
# Posted on December 4th 2008 by david_h
Re: Cracked flute?
Thank you for the comments and links. I've just emailed Copeland Woodwinds, have added a small humidifier to my case for storage and am hopefully looking forward to many more years of playing!
# Posted on December 4th 2008 by mrkelahan
Re: Cracked flute?
Thanks for the oiling advice. (So far the crack seems to be stable under the glue.) It's actually a nice, old flute, not difficult to play at all.
# Posted on December 5th 2008 by Arthur Nordstrom